German settlement restaurant on Baumanskaya 23

• German settlement - the area between the Baumanskaya and Kurskaya metro stations. 300 years ago, Germans and Dutch who worked at the royal court settled here.
• This was one of Peter the Great's favorite places. His friends and associates lived here: Franz Lefort, Patrick Gordon, his first love, the German Anna Mons.
• Lefortovo Palace was built for Franz Lefort, a friend and associate of Peter I. Peter lived here during his stay in Moscow.
• Slobodskaya Palace after the fire of 1812, it was rebuilt by Domenico Gilardi. Today this is one of the buildings technical university them. Bauman.
• One of the most luxurious houses in Moscow– wooden estate of Razumovsky on the Yauza 1799 - 1802.
• A notable monument of industrial architecture 19th century - ARMA gas plant. Today, the factory floors house offices, clubs, and art galleries.

In the vast area between the Baumanskaya and Kurskaya metro stations, the famous German settlement was once located. A place where you can still find echoes of the times of the emperors, Catherine II and Alexander I, admire the Lefortovo Palace, Yelokhovsky Epiphany Cathedral, and other architectural monuments. And next to the settlement, in an area with the self-explanatory ancient name Gorokhovo Pole, there are many interesting old estates and churches.

Voznesenskaya Street (its current name is Radio Street) is named after the Church of the Ascension on the Pea Field. Turning right along this street, you can reach the former Elizabethan Institute of Noble Maidens.

Initially, this mansion belonged to Nikita Demidov, a representative of the famous family of Ural mining owners. His son Nikolai Demidov in 1827 donated his estate to the house of industriousness, on the basis of which the Elizabethan Women's Institute was soon created. The girls studied languages, history, geography, mathematics, the law of God, and home economics.

This tradition partly continued in Soviet time when the Elizabethan Institute became the Moscow regional pedagogical institute named after Krupskaya. Unfortunately, the Demidov estate was poorly preserved - the palace was rebuilt many times, buildings on the territory were partially demolished or built on.

Church of the Ascension on Pea Field

Church of the Ascension on the Pea Field (Radio Street, 2). This area became part of Moscow only in the 18th century; before that, there was a simple field on which peas were actually sown. The famous Moscow architect, Matvey Kazakov, who held the position of chief architect of Moscow, transformed it beyond recognition.

Matvey Kazakov's Moscow is the Petrovsky Travel Palace, the Senate in the Kremlin, the Hall of Columns of the House of Unions, the churches of Metropolitan Philip, Cosmas and Damian and, of course, the Church of the Ascension on the Pea Field. Here Kazakov used his favorite motif - the rotunda, in the form of which the main building of the church was built. It is decorated with Ionic semi-columns, which are in harmony with the Ionic colonnade surrounding the rotunda. Unfortunately, the interior decoration of the temple in Soviet years was lost. But the original church fence has been preserved - an authentic monument from 1805. Near the church there is a small shop where you can buy monastery pies, buns and gingerbreads.

Razumovsky's estate on Yauza

One of the most luxurious houses in Moscow, the Razumovsky estate is comparable to the large royal country residences - Tsaritsyn, Petrovsky Travel Palace, St. Petersburg Pavlovsk or Tsarskoe Selo. Together with the outbuildings, the estate occupies half of modern Kazakova Street (18 Kazakova Street). Its owner was Count Alexei Razumovsky, Minister of Public Education, Privy Councilor, and Senator. The estate was built by his order in 1799 - 1802. The name of the architect is unknown. Among the possible authors are Matvey Kazakov, Nikolai Lvov, Giacomo Quarenghi.

, Russian historical dictionary

GERMAN SLOBODA 1) place of settlement of foreigners in the cities of Russia in the 16th-17th centuries. 2) See Foreign settlements.

German settlements in XVI-XVII centuries named the places of settlement of foreigners in Moscow and other cities of Russia. In Moscow, the German settlement was located in the northeastern part of Moscow, on the right bank of the river. Yauza, near the Kukuy stream. In common people it received the name - settlement Kukuy. The first German settlement in Moscow appeared under Vasily III, who brought with him an honorary guard of hired foreigners and assigned them the Nalivki settlement in Moscow, between Polyanka and Yakimanka, for settlement. This settlement was burned by the Crimean Khan Devlet I Giray during his attack on Moscow in 1571.

German Settlement is one of the legendary districts of old Moscow

The campaigns of Tsar Ivan IV in Livonia brought a very large number of captured Germans to Moscow. Some of them were distributed to cities. The other part settled in Moscow and they were given a new place for construction, near the mouth of the Yauza, on its right bank. In 1578, this German settlement was subjected to a pogrom by Ivan IV.

The patron of foreigners was Boris Godunov. During his reign, many foreigners appeared in Moscow. However, the Troubles brought with it new devastation: the German settlement was burned to the ground. Its population fled to the cities, and those who remained in Moscow began to settle in the area near Chistye Prudy, but their houses were on Arbat, on Tverskaya Street and on Sivtsev Vrazhek.

Living in Russia, foreigners assimilated with the Russians, entered into kinship with them, converted to Orthodoxy, and served the Russian tsars. The Russian people, for their part, also borrowed a lot from the “Germans”. In the house of a wealthy Russian person of the 17th century, it was no longer uncommon to find tables and chairs made of ebony or Indian wood next to simple linden or oak tables or benches. Mirrors and clocks began to appear on the walls.

Foreigners who settled in Moscow found themselves in an advantageous position: they did not pay trade duties, could “smoke wine” and brew beer. This caused considerable envy among the Russian population; the influence of foreigners on clothing and life aroused fears among the clergy; homeowners complained that the “Germans” were raising land prices. The government had to satisfy these complaints. Around 1652 the Germans were ordered to sell their houses to the Russians; foreign churches were demolished and all foreigners were invited to move to the area of ​​​​the current German street, where a new German settlement was formed.

TO end of XVII century, it was already a real German (foreign) town with clean, straight streets, cozy and tidy houses. The attitude towards the German side was not the same. Some favored this place, others looked at foreigners as heretics.

In the old days in Rus', foreigners were called “Germans”, hence the name of the settlement - German, that is, the place where the “dumb” - foreigners who did not know the Russian language - lived.

The settlement was located in Moscow on the right bank of the Yauza in the area of ​​modern Baumanskaya Street. The Kukuy stream flowed through the settlement, which is why the settlement itself was called Kukuy. Only two architectural monuments of that era have survived to this day. This is the Lefortovo Palace of the late 17th century and the so-called Slobodskaya Palace of the 18th century.

The first foreigners to appear in Moscow were merchants. Lying at a busy crossroads of trade routes between West and East, Moscow has long attracted merchants. In turn, the rulers of Moscow welcomed the trade of foreigners in every possible way and gave them benefits.

The merchant’s lifestyle cannot be called sedentary; there weren’t many of them, and they lived dispersedly and not compactly in Moscow.

Italian servants

The first significant settlement of representatives of Western European peoples appeared in Moscow at the end of the 15th century. Then Grand Duke and already the sovereign of All Rus' Ivan III launched a grandiose construction project, for which he invited the best European specialists.
Foreign masters Italians strengthened and equipped the Kremlin, Germans bells and cannons were cast, and artillery was organized. The Moscow government generously rewards them for their efforts, surrounds them with various honors, but denies them the opportunity to return home. The famous Aristotle Fiorovanti paid with disgrace and imprisonment for trying to achieve a return to his homeland.

Thus, under Ivan III, coercive tactics appeared in relation to the necessary foreigners, which would later develop into the Moscow political tradition, traces of which can be seen today.

European drunks

Under the son of Ivan III, Vasily, the number of foreigners accepted into Moscow service increased significantly. A new category is emerging - the military. For foreign soldiers, Vasily founded a special settlement in Zamoskvorechye, which received the funny name Naleika or Nalivki. This settlement was located in the area of ​​modern Spasolivkovsky lanes.

It got its name from the verb “to pour”. Foreign soldiers were allowed to drink alcohol at any time, while local residents were only allowed on major holidays. So the foreigners “filled up” at any time of the day all year round. Therefore, the main motive for founding the settlement was the desire to protect Muscovites from harmful Western habits. Sloboda Nalivki became the first foreign settlement, territorially isolated from the Moscow suburb. It was a kind of reservation.

Captive labor force

Under Ivan the Terrible, a German colony appeared in Moscow to replace the Nalivki settlement. During the war with Teutonic Order Moscow rulers came up with the idea of ​​using prisoners as labor. The bulk of the prisoners were Livonian Germans. They were settled in a separate settlement on the banks of the Yauza River.

In 1575, with the permission of the tsar, they built the first Lutheran church in Moscow. True, it did not last long. After 5 years, the tsar, angry at the Germans for something, sent guardsmen to the settlement, who destroyed the houses and destroyed the church.

Godunov Thaw

The church in the settlement was rebuilt again under Boris Godunov. Boris tried in every possible way to attract foreigners to serve in Moscow; he was extremely favorable to immigrants from Livonia and Germans in general. During his reign, the population of the settlement grew and began to resemble a real German town.

IN Time of Troubles in 1610 the settlement was destroyed by fire, and its inhabitants scattered. Foreigners appear in Moscow again under Mikhail Fedorovich. At first they do not form a compact settlement, but live separately on Tverskaya and Arbat, Sivtsev Vrazhek and Maroseyka, Pokrovka and Myasnitskaya. But over time, they build churches for themselves and try to settle closer to them.

Segregation

Both the townspeople and the clergy looked very askance at the foreigners who began to settle in groups around their churches. The reasons for the discontent were partly economic. The Germans raised the prices of land and yards to such an extent that it became unaffordable for the local Russian population. As a result, the Orthodox churches located in these areas rapidly became poorer as the number of their parishes declined.

Complaints from priests and townspeople forced the authorities to take decisive action. A decree is issued to move all churches beyond the boundaries of Zemlyanoy Town - away from Orthodox churches places. A ban is introduced on the sale of yards within the city to foreigners. Then, on the initiative of Patriarch Nikon Foreigners are prohibited from wearing Russian costume, which they were happy to master. In 1652, an order was issued to evict all Germans outside the city - to the banks of the Yauza, where they were given a place to found a new settlement.

The new foreign settlement (as it was officially called) was formed on the site where there was a German settlement at the end of the 16th and beginning of the 17th centuries. This territory adjoined the right bank of the Yauza and was in contact with Basmanny settlements, the palace villages of Pokrovsky and Preobrazhensky.

Idyll

The settlement was rebuilt quickly. Upon resettlement, each resident received a plot of land. Those who had wooden houses in the city were ordered to dismantle them and move them to the settlement. At first all the houses were wooden, but over time stone ones also appeared.

We have received a review of the settlement from an eyewitness who wrote in 1675 that it looked like German city: "Rows of small cozy houses with tiled roofs stretch along the straight and wide streets. Although many of them are wooden, they are all skillfully painted to resemble brick. Sandy paths lead to the houses, the edges of which are lined with green, neatly trimmed trees. Behind the low fences in the front gardens, fragrant flowers smell wonderful. In the center of the settlement there is a quadrangular pond, the clear waters of which reflect the crowns of the surrounding trees. A windmill flaps its wings nearby.

On the slope near the river, fat cows, fine-wool sheep, pigs and a variety of different birds graze. Vegetables grown by hardworking Germans, including potatoes, unknown in Rus', are ripening in the gardens. The streets are neatly swept, the people are cheerful and friendly. Literally everything has a touch of German quality, comfort and cleanliness."

Churches

Almost simultaneously with their houses, foreign residents build churches for themselves. By the end of the reign of Alexei Mikhailovich in the Novoinozemnaya Sloboda, all the churches were wooden, without bells or organs, heated by large tiled stoves. The first stone church was built in 1686 by the Lutheran merchant community. The second stone church was built in Kirochny Lane, according to rumors that circulated among foreigners at that time, at the expense of Peter I. The young Tsar was personally present at its consecration.

Ethnic composition

German settlement in its own way ethnic composition was very heterogeneous. Almost all Western European peoples were represented in it French people And English, Swedes And Dutch, Italians And Germans. The latter were the majority, so their language was dominant in the settlement. However, the inhabitants of the settlement differed not only in their country of origin and language. They had different religions. Religious differences divided the population and states even in those days Western Europe to hostile camps. However, there were no echoes of this struggle in Moscow, no matter what drastic forms it took abroad.

Peaceful coexistence of different faiths is one of the distinctive features Russian state- was reflected in the life of the German settlement. Moscow Lutherans and Calvinists lived peacefully with us. Catholics and Protestants did not quarrel with each other on our territory.

What did you do

The population of the settlement was as heterogeneous in terms of occupation as it was ethnically. Initially, the military dominated. Moscow authorities practiced hiring European military instructors. The officers were paid well and were very wealthy people.

But the first place in terms of government remuneration was occupied by doctors. In the 16th and 17th centuries, foreign doctors began to be discharged from Europe for royal family. Pharmacists who served in the Pharmacy Department also received a lot. The memory of the pharmacists who lived in the German settlement is preserved in the name of Aptekarsky Lane.

Another group of the suburban population consisted of foreign traders. Many merchants, thanks to their commercial skill and benefits, made huge fortunes in Russia.

Foreigners were subject to Russian laws. Traders and visiting foreigners were tried by the Ambassadorial Order, and servicemen - by the Foreign Order.

Equated to dogs

An important principle of Moscow's policy towards foreigners was the protection of Orthodoxy. The authorities categorically prohibited the propaganda of Western European religions and generally tried to ensure that Muscovites communicate less with people of other faiths. And Muscovites themselves were wary of other religions, and their adherents were looked upon as inferior Christians, beings more low level and generally unclean.

If such a non-religious person entered the Russian church, it was considered desecrated. There was even a special rite for cleansing the church that a non-believer had visited. In meaning, it was equated to the rite of purification after a dog accidentally entered the church. It was believed that with his presence a non-Christian desecrated icons in private homes. Even in own homes foreigners were forbidden to keep Orthodox icons, which they tried to get for the sake of their Russian acquaintances.

At the same time, there were frequent cases of foreigners accepting the “Russian faith.” For such a transition, which was accompanied by rebaptism according to the Orthodox rite, the converts were given a very generous bonus from the treasury. Only after converting to Orthodoxy could a foreigner marry a Russian.

Step to St. Petersburg

The German settlement and its inhabitants played a very noticeable role in the history of Russia. I remember the words of the Russian historian S. Solovyov that “the German settlement is a step to St. Petersburg, just as Vladimir once became a step to Moscow.”

After Peter I moved the capital to the banks of the Neva, many of his associates who lived in the German settlement followed the tsar to St. Petersburg. Immediately changes both national and social composition settlement. Rich and noble Russians begin to settle there.

Years 1689 - 1699

(Start)

Continuation of "fun"

Since 1689, Peter became an independent ruler without any visible guardianship over him. However, he himself does not feel any taste for power and will give it to others. With the fall of Sophia, Queen Natalya and Patriarch Joachim became the main figures in the government. Foreign relations (Embassy order) were entrusted to Lev Kirillovich Naryshkin. Previously influential, Boris Golitsyn has now lost his influence due to the fact that he was suspected of wanting to soften the fate of the prince. V.V. Golitsyna. Peter himself, leaving matters in the hands of his mother and relatives, returned to fun and shipbuilding. If he sometimes interfered in the life of the court and state, then when he clashed with the views of his mother and patriarch he had to yield to them. Thus, the new government showed a sharp dislike towards foreigners (probably under the influence of the patriarch), despite the fact that Peter personally favored them. After the death of Patriarch Joachim (1690), Adrian was elected in his place positively against the will of Peter, who proposed another person.

Peter, however, arranged his personal life completely independently. During these years, he finally became close to foreigners. Previously, they appeared around him as teachers and masters, necessary for arranging fun, and nothing more. Now we see foreigners around Peter - friends, colleagues and mentors in business, comrades in feasts and fun. The most notable of these foreigners were the Scotsman Patrick Gordon, at that time already a general in the Russian service, and the Swiss Franz Lefort, a colonel in the Russian service. The first was a very smart and educated engineer and artilleryman. Always serious, but amiable and witty, always following science and politics, Gordon was too old to become Peter's comrade (in 1689, when Peter met him, he was 54 years old); but Gordon attracted Peter to himself with his ability to deal with people and, with his knowledge and intelligence, became his leader in all serious endeavors. Until Gordon's death, Peter showed him his respect and affection. But Peter became closer and more cordial around the same 1689 with Lefort. He was not quite a young man (born in 1653), but his liveliness of character and rare cheerfulness and sociability allowed Lefort to become a friend of the young king. Far from serious science, Lefort, however, had some education and could act on Peter in a developing way. Some researchers attribute to him the greatest role in the development of Peter’s desire for the West. They think that Lefort, while proving to the Tsar the superiority of Western European culture, developed in him an overly disdainful attitude towards everything native. But even without Lefort, due to his passion, Peter could cultivate this disdain in himself.

Franz Yakovlevich Lefort

Mainly through Gordon and Lefort, Peter became acquainted with the life of the German settlement. Foreigners in the 17th century. were evicted from Moscow to a suburban settlement, which was named German. By the time of Peter the Great, this settlement had already settled down and looked like an elegant Western European town. Foreigners lived in it, of course, in a Western way. It was in this European environment that Peter found himself when he went to visit his foreign acquaintances. Lefort, who enjoyed great fame and love in the settlement, easily introduced Peter into many houses, and without ceremony Peter visited and had fun with the “Germans.”

Sloboda had a great influence on him, he became interested in new forms of life and relationships, discarded the etiquette that surrounded the personality of the sovereign, flaunted in “German” dress, danced “German” dances, noisily feasted in “German” houses. He even attended a Catholic service in the settlement, which, according to ancient Russian concepts, was completely indecent for him. Having become an ordinary guest in the settlement, Peter also found there the subject of his heart’s passion - the daughter of a wine merchant, Anna Mons. Little by little, Peter, without leaving Russia, in the settlement became familiar with the life of Western Europeans and cultivated the habit of Western forms of life. That is why historians attach great importance to the influence of the German Settlement on Peter. She appeared to Peter as the first corner of Europe and lured him to further acquaintance with her.

In the German settlement. Painting by A. N. Benois, 1911

But with his passion for the settlement, Peter’s former hobbies did not stop - military fun and shipbuilding. In 1690 we see large maneuvers in the village of Semenovskoye, in 1691 - large maneuvers near Presburg, an amusing fortress on the Yauza. Peter spent the entire summer of 1692 in Pereyaslavl, where the entire Moscow court came to launch the ship. In 1693, Peter, with his mother’s permission, went to Arkhangelsk, enthusiastically rode on the sea and founded a shipyard in Arkhangelsk to build ships. The sea, seen by Peter for the first time, attracts him to itself. He returns next year to Arkhangelsk.

His mother, Tsarina Natalya, died at the beginning of 1694, and Peter now became completely independent. But he doesn’t get down to business yet - he spends the whole summer on the White Sea and almost dies during a storm on the way to Solovki. He now has a significant retinue with him in Arkhangelsk; Peter is building big ship, Gordon bears the title of rear admiral of the future fleet; in a word, a serious fleet is being launched on the White Sea. In the same year, 1694, we see the last amusing maneuvers near the village of Kozhukhov, which cost several participants their lives.

So Peter ended his fun. Gradually, the hunt for boats brought him to the idea of ​​a fleet on the White Sea; Gradually, playing at being a soldier led to the formation of regular regiments and serious military maneuvers. The amusement lost its amusing character; the king no longer only amused himself, but also worked. Little by little, political plans took shape in him - the fight against the Turks and Tatars.

At the age of 20-22, Peter knew a lot and was able to do a lot compared to those around him. Self-taught or under occasional guidance, he became acquainted with military and mathematical sciences, with shipbuilding and military affairs. His hands were calloused from the ax and saw, physical activity and mobility strengthened an already strong body. Intense physical and mental work evoked, as a reaction, the desire to relax and have fun. The mores of this era and the peculiarities of the environment surrounding Peter determined the somewhat rude nature of Peter’s cheerful recreations. Not content with family parties in the German Settlement, Peter loved to party in single company. This company even received some kind of permanent organization and was called the “all-joking cathedral”; its chairman was Peter's former teacher Nikita Zotov, who bore the title of "Ianikita, the most humorous Patriarch of Presburg, Yauz and Kokui." This company served, as it put it, “Bacchus and Ivashka Khmelnitsky.” With this company, Peter sometimes arranged extravagant fun (for example, in 1694 he publicly celebrated the wedding of the jester Turgenev with a jester ceremony). On Christmastide, Peter went with her to have fun at the houses of his courtiers. But it would be a cruel mistake to think that these amusements and company distracted Peter from the department. Both Peter himself and those around him knew how to work and “dedicated time to business and time to fun.”

However, Peter's friendship with foreigners, the eccentricity of his behavior and amusements, indifference and contempt for the old customs and etiquette of the palace aroused condemnation among many Muscovites - they saw Peter as a great sinner. And not only Peter’s behavior, but also his very character, could not please everyone. In Peter's nature, rich and passionate, childhood events developed a share of evil and cruelty. Education could not contain these dark sides character, because Peter had no upbringing. That's why Peter was quick with his word and hand. He flared up terribly, sometimes over trifles, and gave vent to anger, and sometimes he was cruel. His contemporaries left us evidence that Peter frightened many with his mere appearance, the fire of his eyes. We will see examples of his cruelty in the fate of the archers. Peter generally seemed like a formidable king even in his youth.

the site, together with the Internet project "Walks around Moscow", has opened a section in which it talks about atypical interesting places in the city for walking.

We have already published guides to the area where the Soviet intelligentsia lived and the curious residential outskirts. Next in line is the area of ​​the former German settlement on Baumanskaya (part of the Basmanny district). In the first of two parts of this guide, we will go to Kukuy, find Lefort's castle and find out where the mistress of Peter the Great could live. (The second part of walks around the German settlement).

The German settlement, located on the territory of modern Baumanskaya, dates back to the 17th century. In those days, foreigners were evicted from the territory of Moscow to the right bank of the Yauza, where they built a separate village for themselves.

Since Germans were then called not only people from Germany, but any foreigners in general (they did not know Russian, therefore, they were “dumb” in the eyes of Muscovites), the settlement received the name German. The common people called it “Kukui” - just like the stream that flowed nearby.

Alexander, resident of the area: “I’ve lived on Baumanskaya all my life. My mother was moved from work to a hostel on Bolshaya Pochtovaya Street even before I was born. Later, closer to entering school, our family was given an apartment on Novoryazanskaya Street. We’ve been living there ever since.

The Baumanskaya area is certainly of great cultural value. There are many historical buildings here. places, but for me, who lived here all 28 years of my life, it is memorable to others. I remember well the events with which I associate certain places. I remember well how the appearance of the area changed. In some places it became better for me, but in others the extraordinary charm was lost. One thing remained unchanged - I have always loved and continue to love every corner of it."

Mosaic near the Baumanskaya metro station, Baumanskaya street, 35/1, building 9

Right at the exit from the Baumanskaya metro station you can see the unusual facade of one of the houses opposite. There is a large mosaic on it with the caption “German Settlement 16th century”.

The panel consists of three parts. It shows a German settlement on the right bank of the Yauza. Just below you can find small images of typical Germans and German women of those times. Of course, this is not an accurate historical reconstruction, but a skillful stylization.

Although foreigners finally settled on the right bank of the Yauza only in the second half of the 17th century, the first German settlements here actually appeared earlier, in the 16th century. Then foreigners moved here from another settlement, which was burned in 1571 by the Crimean Khan Devlet Giray. But this first German settlement on the right bank of the Yauza was soon destroyed - by Ivan the Terrible in 1578. The Germans then returned to the settlement and rebuilt their town only after 1652, when they were ordered to leave their houses within the boundaries of Zlatoglavaya.

Christina, resident of the area: “I’ve been living on Baumanskaya for only a few months, I was born and raised in Lublin. I remember when I first came here - and this was long before I moved - the mosaic immediately caught my eye, which is located directly opposite the metro exit. At the same time, my friend, who has lived in this area for many years, claims that she noticed it only recently. However, they say that the mosaic was previously hidden behind some buildings - either cafes or shops. And then they were demolished, and now they were demolished. You can easily come closer to the mosaic and look at the image.”

The former market square of the German Settlement,corner of Ladozhskaya and Friedrich Engels streets

Not far from the Baumanskaya metro station there was once one of the centers of the German Settlement - the market square. The place has still retained its original layout - despite the complete change of buildings. In addition, trade is still going on here.

Previously, the market sold firewood, food and hay. The buildings that have survived to this day were mainly built only in the middle of the 19th century, and some even later - at the beginning of the 20th.

One of the pre-revolutionary buildings is notable for its unusual cladding. It is the work of a businessman who, at the beginning of the last century, renovated the façade of an old house in this way. The building has retained not only the cladding, but also the tiled frames from old signs, which is very rare and unusual for the capital.

Alexander, resident of the area:“If you walk from the main entrance of the school where I studied, straight to the arrow formed by Ladozhskaya and Friedrich Engels Street, you can find yourself in a place that I like now - I didn’t like it as a child. Noisy, full of cars and people, but as well as various establishments and shops that change here with amazing speed.

Until recently, a fair came here on weekends, adding even more buzz to the place. This area is always crowded with a lot of students (the buildings of the Bauman Moscow State Technical University are very close by), which creates a special atmosphere.”

Anna Mons House, Starokirochny Lane, 6

The German settlement, this mysterious island of the Western world in the capital of the huge Russian state, became the real passion of Peter the Great. It was here that people lived who knew how to build ships, owned other technologies unknown to Muscovy and simply lived differently - not at all like Russians.

Peter studied maritime affairs with the inhabitants of Kukui, Franz Timmerman and Karsten Brandt, and the German Settlement also gave him good friend Franz Lefort. Here the future emperor met his famous favorite Anna Mons (aka Anna-Margaret von Monson, “The Monk” and Queen of Kukui), with whom Peter was in love for more than ten years.

There is no documentary evidence of where exactly Anna Mons lived, but there is an opinion that she could have owned the stone chambers - the only surviving residential building of that very German settlement. Now it is located on the territory of a precision instrument factory, which has not been operational since 2004.

In the meantime, it is known for sure that the chambers belonged to the father and son Van der Hulst, former doctors of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich and Peter.

Anya, resident of the area:“I am a native Muscovite, I have lived on Baumanskaya all my life. Before the revolution, my great-great-grandfather had his own small shop nearby. When he was dispossessed, I had to take my wife and children and move to the village. It seems to me that this is a good irony of fate - that in the end our family Somehow, miraculously, I ended up again in approximately the same area.”

Lefortovo Palace, 2nd Baumanskaya street, 3

Franz Lefort, true friend and an associate of Peter, was born in Geneva, then went to Holland, and from there to Russia. In the German Settlement, the foreigner met the future great sovereign, with whom he became close. Lefort subsequently participated in the Crimean campaigns, received the ranks of general and admiral, and participated in all the affairs undertaken by Peter.

By order of Peter, in 1698, construction of the first building of the Lefortovo Palace began in the German settlement. Its appearance turned out to be European - the palace is considered the first attempt of the sovereign to free himself from the old Russian architectural canons, which he disliked so much.

Lefort celebrated a housewarming in February 1699, and died just three weeks later. Peter the Great began to use the buildings for performances, receptions and celebrations. Then he gave the palace to Menshikov, who slightly rebuilt it. When Menshikov went into exile, the palace returned to the treasury. The building was significantly damaged during the fire of 1737 and was rebuilt again in 1742, but pieces of Peter the Great's masonry were preserved in the wall of the central building.

Now the palace houses the Russian State Military Historical Archive and the Russian state archive photographic documents.

Slobodskaya Palace and Bauman Moscow State Technical University, 2nd Baumanskaya, 5

The Slobodskaya Palace, which in 1830 became the building of the Bauman University (then the Orphanage), originally belonged to Count Bestuzhev-Ryumin. He began building it in 1749.

The palace took so long to build that Bestuzhev-Ryumin never had time to live in it: he ended up in exile. The building ended up in the treasury and a few years later Catherine II gave it to Alexei Orlov, the younger brother of her famous favorite.

Orlov practically did not live in the palace, neglected it, and the building was eventually transferred to Prince Bezborodko. He rebuilt the building according to the design of Giacomo Quarenghi, and then gave it to Paul I. For some time, the imperial residence was located here.

The Slobodskaya Palace acquired its modern appearance after 1826, when it was rebuilt by Domenico Gilardi after the fire of 1812. The building was allocated to the Orphanage.

In 1868 vocational school for boys turned into Imperial technical school, on the basis of which the Bauman Moscow State Technical University was created in Soviet times.

Anton, student at Bauman Moscow State Technical University: “I love the surroundings of my university. When I entered, I even bothered for a while, looked for guidebooks, read history. I wouldn’t say that I became an expert in this regard, but I can still name the main attractions of the area and the history of the Slobodsky Palace. It’s great that I had the chance study here."

Chechera River, Denisovsky Lane

The Chechera River, a tributary of the Yauza, was enclosed in a pipe at the beginning of the 20th century. Now it flows under Nizhnyaya Krasnoselskaya, Dobroslobodskaya streets, Denisovsky Lane. It was along this river that the border of the German Settlement used to pass. Not far from Denisovsky Lane, the Kukuy stream flowed into it, which gave the settlement its name.

Alexander, resident of the area:“Dobroslobodskaya street, Denisovsky, Aptekarsky and Tokmakov lanes are the most favorite city walking area, probably not only on Baumanskaya, but throughout Moscow. Small courtyards, kindergartens, shops, residential buildings. It’s always very calm here. Especially in the summer months when the streets and courtyards are completely empty.

I liked to walk through this area either towards the Kurskaya metro station or to Lefortovo Park - also one of my favorite places in the area, as well as the Yauza embankment in general - which now attracts a small free skating rink and tubing on the ponds."

Franz Hilferding House, Starokirochny lane, house 5, building 1

At the beginning of the 18th century, the settlement began to be built up with palaces of the nobility. If the small autonomy of the settlement (the ability not to pay taxes, brew beer, sell wine) disappeared in the time of Peter, then under Catherine the Great Sloboda the way of life almost completely disappeared.

Here, meanwhile, foreigners who came to Russia continued to settle. For example, Franz Hilferding, ballet dancer, choreographer and teacher. In 1758-1764, he staged performances and designed scenery for St. Petersburg and Moscow ballet troupes.

Lefortovo police station building, Starokirochny Lane, 13

In the 1770s, a city ​​estate Nesterova. The building turned out to be so strong that it survived the fire of 1812. 20 years after the fire, they decided to locate the Lefortovo police station here.

Currently in the old building - Institute of Business Law, Faculty of Moscow State law university(MGYuA).

Novokirochny and Starokirochny lanes

Previously, both lanes were called simply Kirochny. Not far from them, on what is now Radio Street, 17, was the “old” church, the Lutheran Church of St. Michael, built in 1764 and destroyed after the revolution. Hence the name. In the 16th century, the first Lutheran church in Russia was located in its place. Before the fire of 1812, there was another, “new” church nearby - Saints Peter and Paul.

The names of the lanes today cause confusion, because the “old” church was located closer to the modern Novokirochny lane, and the “new” one - to Starokirochny.

Although the “old” church was demolished in 1928, on Novokirochny Lane you can find the building of a Lutheran school built at the end of the 19th century. Earlier, in the 17th century, local teacher Johann Gottfried Gregory staged skits on religious themes with his students. Rumors about this reached Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, and he invited Gregory to set up a theater in Preobrazhenskoye. This is how the first court theater appeared in Russia.

After the revolution, the TsAGI (Aerohydrodynamic Institute) building was built on the site of the “old” church. During the demolition of the church, the grave of a naturalist and scientist was discovered, to whom the capital's rumor attributed witchcraft abilities. What happened to the burial place of the “warlock” in the future is unknown.

Phanagorian barracks, Brigadirsky Lane, 13

The Phanagorian barracks are the oldest of the buildings preserved on Baumanskaya Street. Initially, at the beginning of the 18th century, this place was the site of the house of a surgeon of German origin, Johann Lestocq, who was expelled from Russia under Peter and returned by Catherine I.

Lestok became the first court physician in Russia. Moreover, he was Privy Councilor Elizabeth Petrovna and was among the organizers of the palace coup on November 25, 1741. After Elizabeth’s enthronement, the foreign doctor, however, again found himself in disgrace; he was exiled and released only under Peter III.

In the mid-18th century, the building was rebuilt for the Senate (the previous one burned down in a fire), and in the 19th century it was occupied by the military. At first it was located here cadet corps, then - the battalion of the Trinity-Sergius Lavra, and then the Phanagorian regiment. Now in the barracks - science Center Russian Ministry of Defense.

Dmitry, resident of the area: “I’ve lived on Baumanskaya since childhood, I really love my district and know a lot about it. I’m generally interested in history. I remember at school I won some kind of competition for knowledge of our district. None of my peers knew what Kukuy was, and even with They are confused by the “old” and “new” churches.”

Anna Teplitskaya